I was just thinking back to memorable sessions i have had over the last few years. One came to mind from 8/24/05, it was not a particularly remarkable day as it relates to surf conditions, however I was riding an old early 60's Hannon pig, the morning was crisp and it was uncrowded. Here is an excerpt from my long since forgotten surf log.
"So infrequently are we able to express the simple joy of surf-riding and our love of the ocean to our non-surfing friends and family members. Often in trying to relate stories or experiences to these non-surfing significant others, words fall very short of fully capturing the true nature of our experience and the sheer beauty of the moment to moment awareness required when wave riding. These experiences can be both awe-inspiring and meditative in quality. Today was one such day for me. Although the waves were extremely small, my experience in the ocean this morning will stay with me for some time. Perfectly groomed micro-waves (knee high), crisp off shore breezes, a beautiful sunrise and a relatively empty break. While most people probably walked away from the morning surf check frustrated with another day of flatness, I was enjoying the session immensely. Riding the front third of an early 60's log proved to be the call, as any other board would most probably have proved to be extremely frustrating. While catching some of these perfectly simple and elegant waves, I also had the pleasure of observing a father teaching his 10- year son the joys of surfing. The boy had a blissful look on his face and his dad's enthusiasm was making the experience a life long memory for the kid. All and all, a beautiful morning and reminder, as to why I surf."