Friday, December 31, 2010

happy new year- stay in today!!



Stay in today, moment by moment. New Years day often calls for a reflection of the year past and planning for the year ahead. My objective is to be solidly grounded in the moment as it unfolds--- surely way easier said than done but that's the intention.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

wishful thinking..




here is a shot from last winter..... no such luck lately here in new york

Monday, December 27, 2010

Talking Heads - This must be the place (Naive Melody) [live - 1984].avi

Probably one of my favorite songs of all time. Hits me on so many levels. Do you have "a face with a view"?

Sunday, December 26, 2010

the good old dayz.....



I lifted this shot of the interweb--- Old San-O. Classic stuff,,,, wouldn't you like to go back in time every once in a while..

Friday, December 24, 2010

Happy Christmas (War Is Over)

about as beautiful as a christmas song can be....

Happy Hullidays!



Image lifted from my buddies' Adam and ken's now defunct blog (Hultastic Voyage)!!!

In all seriousness- have a joyous, peaceful and mindful holiday season.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

simster- post surf session



This is the first photograph I have exposed in well over a month. Lately, I have been feeling a lack of motivation to shoot. Not sure if its because of the weather, lack of waves or some sense that I am becoming redundant in what I am shooting. That said, I am pretty happy with this picture and in some way it has got me a little more motivated to keeping the camera loaded and ready. Subject matter is boring only if we fail to look hard enough at our surroundings.

Extreme Caroling (Prank busted by cops!)

sit back and smile and laugh!!

Bob Dylan - Shelter From the Storm

Dylan in all his ragged glory!!

Monday, December 20, 2010

happy winter...



hard to believe that today is the first day of winter.. seems like its been going on for some time...

desolation row....



this images was one of my first after I picked up the camera after a long absence from photography. To me the image captures the sometimes quiet desolation of winter surfing. While the idea of being alone when surfing these days is a rarity, at times during the winter it still occurs, thereby allowing for the opportunity to connect with natures surroundings in a deeper, less distracted and more contemplative manner. December is personally a very difficult month for me due to some painful memories; however the "thin line that seperates fish from fowl" is ever healing.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

log love...nothin' left to do but smile, smile, smile



light off shores, crystal clear water, knee/thigh high peeling little a frames and being alone with three friends. nothin left to do but smile, smile, smile..

Saturday, December 18, 2010

small but fun enough!



Some times it doesn't take much to get the stoke back-- a little saltwater group ice hydrotherapy did just the trick this morning... my type of attitude adjustment

Friday, December 17, 2010

hope for a little weekend log love



Its been a while since i reconnected with my long boards-hoping to reconnect with trim this weekend

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Winter Hull



Here is my buddy Ken in his "hull period" (8'0"fineline microant). While hulls are a rarity around here now, Ken used to proclaim his love for his "winter Hull"... I was never sure what he meant about that though...

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

winter sky......



despite the bitter cold winds of the winter months, east coast winter sky's can be unreal- subtle hues

Sunday, December 12, 2010

swallow tail..


when its flat i start relating everything to surfing.... a different type of swallow tail i suppose

Saturday, December 11, 2010

I wanna be..



I wanna be on this bus heading where the chilly winds don't blow..., and where there is a rideable wave... not diggin' winter so far..
YUCK

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

December 8th: Bodhi Day



December 8th, marks the Buddhist Holiday of Bodhi Day. Bodhi Day is an observance of Siddhartha Gautama's awakening under the Bodhi Tree. Interestingly, the day also marks the anniversary of John Lennon's untimely death(30 years). It strikes me as rather ironic that such a visionary, radical, compassionate man was taken so abruptly on this important day. In his own way, i guess Lennon may have achieved a form of enlightenment on this day also. Take a moment and get in touch with that quiet peace within.

This images is an ode to sitting meditation. The gulls here seem to have the right. idea

Monday, December 6, 2010

north county..



missing being out there... here cold, gusty sideshore and flat for what seems like forever...

Sunday, December 5, 2010

mood enhancer



Finally got wet friday afternoon. very small but perfect shape. able to pick off a bunch on the simster.... its amazing what a little surfing will do for the mood!!

Friday, December 3, 2010

On Sale at Drift...



Holiday sale at Drift for Salt Stained Eyes prints... www.driftsurfing.com

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Empire State Studio's Annual Group Photo Show



"Another Photo Show"
Time for Empire State Studio's annual photography group show. You all know the deal, spread the word then come down on December 4th at 7pm to check out some awesome photography and have a few cocktails...Empire State Studio. 222 Merrick Road Oceanside NY

I'll be showing some images along with a host of good photogs, come on down if you are around

Here's a link to the event on Facebook...

www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/event.php?eid=172349186124986

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

looking back..



This recent flat spell has led me to have a shortage of new photographs. My initial intention of this blog was to set a personal challange of posting new images daily..no small task given our inconsistent surf and my fairly hectic schedule. Up until recently i have generally been able to live up to this challange but I as of late new photographic work is coming slowly... This has forced me to look back at the images from the last few years, here is one from last December that i never posted. Hopefully our weather patterns start changing and we get more consistent surf so that i can go on my merry way of surfing nad shooting the activity I feel so connected too..


waiting....

Sunday, November 28, 2010

pendo-roid



funny how it all goes flat when a new board comes into the quiva- been staring at this board for a week now with no waves in sight- 6'1, 22 wide marine ply keels and flex tail

it's been a long time, since I......



got wet!!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Sk8-adoids II



flat-ness continues

One from last November



Grabbed this one last year during thanksgiving. Rainy morning surf check, vw bus, black and white film- such a great combination. i love the tonality of this image- many shades of grey.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Monday, November 15, 2010

Chucky T's



Nosegliding with Chucky's T... nice way to stay nimble between swells.

Illin' Pendopavel



tripping epoxy pavel speed dialer that Pendo collaborated on. Insanely refined rails and light as a feather. Illmi has some rad sticks!!

Thanks to all who came out to support the Tommy Brull Foundation Saturday night- lots of money donated which will services three very special projects. Read more about the foundation at here: Tommy Brull

Friday, November 12, 2010

"Connectedness"



How often do you feel totally connected to your surrounding and a oneness with the environment? For me that incredible sense of flow is fleeting and does not happen nearly enough despite my attempts at a mindful and contemplative life. Most often when these moments occur I am surfing. One such "episode of connected-ness" occurred Wednesday evening. I was conflicted about rushing down to the beach after work obligations. My rational head was screaming, " It's not worth it, there's not enough time". Despite these overtly rational disputations, I was compelled to go anyway. Ambling through after-school/rush hour congestion with dwindling day light only made these thoughts resound louder. Thankfully I proceeded. I arrived to small but perfectly shaped thigh to waist lines and an empty line-up. If only I brought the log. I eagerly suited up and paddled out on my simster. Over the course of the next 45 to sixty minutes the session became more and more powerfully calm. Little lines gave way to an exploding sky filled feeding sea birds, warm golden light and iridescence froth on the waters surface. Surfing these little elegant lines being mindful of the dynamic surface reflections of the wave face again confirmed for me the gratitude I have for the ability to "wash it all off" and expand/empty into the nothingness of the moment.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

keel hauler---rich pavel




I am always amazed at the quality of boards found here at our not so epic surf location...

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

decisions, decisions




5'9 Joe B Simster or 7'2" Cherry Simms21-decisions, decisions... saturday i optef for the weight, stability and paddling easy of the Cherry, whereas on sunday I opted for the shorter and more nimble.

Monday, November 8, 2010

bleary eyed morning



Snapped this shot after i pulled into the parking lot just as dawn arrived. The militant one was already amping to get in....

Sunday, November 7, 2010

What a nice way to start November



chilly but plently of swell in the water this weekend. Rusty bones and limited lung capacity had its way with me but caught a few really fun slides. Saturday I took out the 7'2 cherry simms21 and yesterday was the maiden voyage on the 5'9 simster- so much fun- three is key!!

This is a shot of "big wave Dave" with his seriously old school gunny log.

looking inward / emptying the mind



about to embark on alittle house cleaning of the mind.....

Saturday, November 6, 2010

In the End Living is Victorious...



A rather paradoxical week for the surf world. Andy Iron's tragically passes, and Kelly is immortalized with his 10th world championship. The two individuals will forever be remembered and linked in surfing's collective consciousness. Intense rivalry, competition, tragedy and transcendence are words that come to mind, but in the end life is always victorious.

Friday, November 5, 2010

My Brother Tom...




Its been almost eleven years since my brother Tom passed away, I still think of him daily. If you knew him, you were blessed by the presence of a caring, funny, intelligent and creative, humble human being. He loved surfing, skating, writing and being with friends and his family. A truly soulful cat!!

If you are in the New York area please consider coming out to the Annual Tommy Brull Foundation Fundraiser. Money raised this year will benefit the Camp Anchor Building Fund, ASPIRE (an agency servicing individuals on the Autism Spectrum) and Jim Lasko. Read more about the foundation and this years event check the link below

Tommy Brull Foundation

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

John Cherry Simms21



Here is a shot of the tail of my 7'2 John Cherry Simms21- the Simms21 is John's take of the traditional simmons style board with some modern tweeks. This board is set up with the most beautiful exotic wood keels and a half moon little trailing fin. Deep double concave at the tail and a little belly under nose. The rails are trainsition from an "uprail to a 50/50 to a nice hard down rail at the tail. The deck at the nose is scooped out to reduce swing weight. This midi-simmons is so buttery smooth!!!

laying it out



froth laying out the hess quiv...

Monday, November 1, 2010

Laurelton Landmark



This is a shot of my friend Tom, probably one of the most dedicated and stoked surfer I know. He is down at the beach pre-dawn any time there is the slightest hope of a rideable wave. This attitude of surf psychosis has been present in him for a long, long time. He takes pleasure in the sleeper days where there is a surprise little bump in the water with light winds.

The guy has the surf joy of a grom. He surfs his favorite spot with the loyalty of a Labrador Retriever, and it is almost as if he is cheating on his wife if forced to move over to another break due to crowding or a bad vibe in the water.Tom is almost as obsessed with Laurelton as he is with his quiver of dewey webers. Tom thanks for the friendship and the excitement you share about "this thing of ours".

Sunday, October 31, 2010

good to get wet again..



I got in yesterday for the first time in over three weeks. The water is starting to make that chilly change but it felt really good to reconnect with the movement of the ocean. the waves were less than memorable but nonetheless it was a pleasure to be on a wave again. hopefully more is to come!!- here is my first attempt at using a polaroid...the whole process feels kinda fun. who doesnt like instant gratification minus the pixels

Saturday, October 30, 2010

happy halloween



ave and pjay contemplating the virtues of organic pumpkin growing..