I am overjoyed by the people I have in my life. My wife, Pjay and daughter, Avery have given meaning to my life that I was unaware of. It is with great excitement, and gratitude that I celebrate the Christmas season with them and others in my family. Christmas with a 5- year old is incredibly special, given the magic of Santa Claus and the abundant enthusiasm only a child can display.
Despite this incredible energy, Christmas Eve proves to be a particularly difficult time for me, as it was nine years to the day that I lost my brother, Tom. The season, somewhat painfully brings to life all of the incredible memories of him and the true essence of his spirit. The reality is both comforting and difficult at the same time. I miss Tom greatly but it is evident that his spirit lives on within me and the people he has touched.
I think of him often when surfing and only wish that more sessions were to be had. I still can recall the last time I surfed with him and my other brother, Martin. Lots of laughs and good times on a day with a decent groundswell, a nice sunset and favorable winds. This memory and many others like it give me comfort!
I wish everyone a Merry and Mindful Christmas!!!
1 comment:
tuff respect to tommy and the brothers brull, homeboy's reciting poetry from the line-up AND the bench while ya'll gettin barrelled!
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