a jersey morning

Over the last week, I have gotten several inquires about this image- Its one of my personal favorites- The light was so soft, the wave was so perfect..

windblown walk back

a fliipped brownie shot from rhode island. I kinda like the off-balanced body position so counter to surfing.

Captain Fin Scratched My Anchor...

Here is the Good Seafaring Irishman. The photograph was taken on during my boat trip to Inishmore (Aran Islands) sometime ago. He had the complete look going. He could be walking around "billyburg" these days.

early morning summer time micro-glass

rhode island hunter seeker

this dude was quite serious about his video gaming-kinda scared me a bit!!! x-processed LC-A image

tidal pool 1

Snapped this one on a beautiful morning with some intense clouds and an easterly swell. full moon tide was dropping and leaving some neat tidal pools.

one from the archives

this is one of my favorite shots from the past year. i posted up early in my entry into the blog world and i thought i put it up again. i like the play between the tractor marks and the wave. hoping to get some clean ones this afternoon

A connected evening

I got in the water yesterday for my first consecutive day to day surf session in some time. I hesitated a bit due to the limited light (day light savings time) and sketchy wind report but I finally mustered up the motivation to make the trip. I got in the water from 4PM til 5:30PM and enjoyed the most intense sunset/moonrise combination i have seen in some time. Total glass-off at dusk, so the ocean took on a transcendent quality of color, energy, stillness. A moment to moment awareness emerged that allowed the distance between the me (the individual) and the environment at large to dissolve and merge. While the waves were a little fat and the swell angle was to east- the experience was still quite fulfilling and a deep sense of relaxation ensued.

On another note- i stumbled upon two brief on-line write-ups on my photographs that i thought I'd pass on:

http://driftsurfing.com/blog/?p=2571

http://www.theadventurelife.org/2009/11/from-lo-fi-to-head-high/

It is nice to read that my photographs are being seen and understood. thanks drift and the adventure life!!

getting back to normal

Yesterday I celebrated my 44th birthday (ouchh) with a extended morning session. Clean waist/rib high lines coming in and I spent time getting re-aquainted with my hull. Every time i ride my hull i am always amazed at the speed,very different that fish speed as when in trim it just excelerates. Put it neutral and let her FLY!!!
I happy that things are starting to feel normal. My anxiety is down and my timing and wind are slowly returning. My stoke meter is back on the rise- feels so good!!!!

Fooman and the Rad Warrior

Missing the early days of fall, with the crisp morning light, wispy off shores, warm water and a vague sense the summer was still around. Hoping to get my latest aquisition in the water tomorrow for her maiden voyage (mid sixties hansen 50/50). Surfcasts are calling for light offshores with a little knee-thigh high wave. I havent ridden my longboards in quite a while- looking to get re-aquainted.

last light after a good swell

I love photographing at pre-dawn and post dusk- the negs become much more tricky to work with but these under exposed lo-fi. negs can really capture a mood. Sometimes less detail evokes more mental/emotional reactions for me and hopefully the viewer- i haven't shot in a while- just not feeling too inspired-i did get in the water yesterday for the first time in over a month- good to cleanse!!

another view from out back

Here is another photograph from RI- such a great location. long, long lefts.

two backyard shapes....

Rhode Island point surf out in the backyard and a home grown backyard log with extremely classic/kitschy lams.

the waiting continues...

It's been a month and a half since my value replacement. While I got clearance to re-enter the water on a limited basis about three weeks ago and I have only had one session. Seems like feast of famine in these parts as of late. Either the waves are punchy and a little more than I am willing to go in at this time, or it's been dead flat or sideshore junk. I am getting itchy to say the least, and the water is only getting colder. Hopefully some oily glass in the waist/chest range will show eventually so that i can get my comfort level back and test the ticker abit. thewaiting is the hardest part (wow never thought I'd quote T. Petty).

the two shot above are from a very marginal day (shin/calf high haha) in august. The morning light and the glass conditions make the shots appealing to me, despite the lack of any aqua theatrics.

Rhodey styles

I caught this guy as he was changing boards up-switching to the fattie.