
My man Lenny is always reliable with his morning surf check texts. The text comes in like some no nonsense, military-like classified info- example: "chest -going" or "knee- longboardable" or "flat-paddling out anyway!!"
Some super fun waves yesterday-my first time on a fish since thanksgiving- such a good way to start 2010. Tons of rights- very unusual around these parts- so fun to watch all my spoiled goofy footed friends going right.
No comments:
Post a Comment