Sunday, January 24, 2010

an observation...

It's funny how the more I surf the more I want to surf. Its perhaps more interesting that the more I surf, the more irritable I get when I can not surf. I guess this is a tell tale sign of an addiction. At least it is a healthy addiction, provided I do not destroy my interpersonal relationships in the process ( I jest, well kind of). I also have noticed that I rely more on surfing when undergoing tricky intra-personal growth activity. surfing provides a very calming affect on my mood and mental activity, and allows me to step back from the issue at hand and gain some perspective.

This past week I got in the water for five sessions. This is pretty good by my winter standards as the lack of light, a work schedule that makes dawn patrol impossible, unfavorable winds and limited free time on the weekends really gets in the way. I guess for me, its important to fully recognize the experience of surfing as it occurs and to stay in the moment as much as possible, as one never knows when the next opportunity for surf may occur again.

4 comments:

Toddy said...

It is times like these that preclude me from ever telling anyone I am a "surfer."
I just go too long between paddle outs during certain periods of my life.
This too shall pass, I suppose.

KL said...

surfing, the dead, phish, and vinyl all provide that same sort of healing youre talking about for me personally. well put jack.

Brine Time said...

Here, here.
And it's stinking hot here as we say in Oz, so thanks for additional calming benefit of chilly surf scenes.

Rebecca Olive said...

A surf? I'm jealous.

I'm starting to get that edgy feeling but no waves for me til next week.

But yeah - I don't miss it as much as I do when I make a trip down the coast. It's a small price to pay though...