This is a shot of my friend Tom, probably one of the most dedicated and stoked surfer I know. He is down at the beach pre-dawn any time there is the slightest hope of a rideable wave. This attitude of surf psychosis has been present in him for a long, long time. He takes pleasure in the sleeper days where there is a surprise little bump in the water with light winds.
The guy has the surf joy of a grom. He surfs his favorite spot with the loyalty of a Labrador Retriever, and it is almost as if he is cheating on his wife if forced to move over to another break due to crowding or a bad vibe in the water.Tom is almost as obsessed with Laurelton as he is with his quiver of dewey webers. Tom thanks for the friendship and the excitement you share about "this thing of ours".
2 comments:
top marks for snaring a beauty in what must be chill conditions
Looks like you've got that Heathways Mako Shark figured out. Stellar portrait.
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