An exploration of the surfing experience through the use of lo-fi and analog photographic mediums.
Friday, November 12, 2010
"Connectedness"
How often do you feel totally connected to your surrounding and a oneness with the environment? For me that incredible sense of flow is fleeting and does not happen nearly enough despite my attempts at a mindful and contemplative life. Most often when these moments occur I am surfing. One such "episode of connected-ness" occurred Wednesday evening. I was conflicted about rushing down to the beach after work obligations. My rational head was screaming, " It's not worth it, there's not enough time". Despite these overtly rational disputations, I was compelled to go anyway. Ambling through after-school/rush hour congestion with dwindling day light only made these thoughts resound louder. Thankfully I proceeded. I arrived to small but perfectly shaped thigh to waist lines and an empty line-up. If only I brought the log. I eagerly suited up and paddled out on my simster. Over the course of the next 45 to sixty minutes the session became more and more powerfully calm. Little lines gave way to an exploding sky filled feeding sea birds, warm golden light and iridescence froth on the waters surface. Surfing these little elegant lines being mindful of the dynamic surface reflections of the wave face again confirmed for me the gratitude I have for the ability to "wash it all off" and expand/empty into the nothingness of the moment.
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3 comments:
Well put. Nothing beats a nice calming surf to put things in perspective.
Beautiful words. You are in the zone.
Nice!
I think duck dives have the power to wash all the shit off our brains...
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