An exploration of the surfing experience through the use of lo-fi and analog photographic mediums.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
A dollar short and a day late... so it goes
That last step to the tip is so elusive and rare for me..while my success percentage is slowly increasing, too often i get enjoyably stuck in trim about 6 inches from the tip. I'll choose to blame this pattern on our inconsistent waves and my lack of commitment to logging when swell moves to a long period interval rather than my ability level... yeah right, i am sure my BS is pretty transparent. When i do get to the tip, the ride is rather short lived because I stubbornly refuse to pay attention to the subtle and not so subtle signs of enpending doom. I envy the guys I know who regularly stick the noseride!! live and learn and i gotta commit to more practice...
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