Enjoy Everyday!!

I got in the water for the first time since my medically-induced hiatus yesterday. surfed a little fish session in the morning and then went back for a little log session. The waves were less then memorable, but I will not soon forget the session, as it all seemed so new, and fresh and allowed me to again realize how special the act of surfing is. It was a seriously cleansing experience. Don't take for granted what ya got, enjoy everyday!!