Wednesday, August 26, 2009
a surprisingly good dawn patrol
I headed to the beach this morning at 5:30, not expecting much. Arrived at the beach to extremely small, tide-drained little micropeelers. The wind was light off-shore. I stared at it for a while trying to convince myself it was worth the effort. Finally found the motivation, as the tide switch and started coming in, the wave quality improved providing an extremely fun little log session, with just two other guys out. Fun little thigh high zippers that stayed open long enough for some cross stepping and quick trips to the nose. The wave also had enough energy to allow for some cut backs when needed. Such a happy surprise, I am still smiling!!! I really dig these little sessions- expectations are down, empty line-up and glass.