So much of what we do as surfers' is ritualistic and over-learned habits. Given that, it is easy to lose sight of some of the subtle aspects of the surfing experience. I attempt to be mindful and aware of each step along the way as I believe the process in totality leads to the culminating experience of wave riding.
Early morning bouy checks, pulling boards from the garage rafters, strapping them to the roof the car, selecting music for the drive are opportunities to enjoy the early morning hours and prepare for the day. Getting to the beach always brings on feelings of anticipation and excitement as I get my first glimpse of the surf. Selecting the board to be ridden, suiting-up and waxing are equally part of the overall experience and often provide opportunities to catch up with friends and get ready for the paddle out.
The above photos are some recent shots of the process.