Monday, January 5, 2009

Desperado: A conversation at dawn..

I was out surfing last week with a friend(not pictured). The waves were small(waist high at best) and blown out with a heavy west wind flow, the temperature was in the hi 20's. Obviously, it was a "desperado session; however in my friend's frustration, he started ranting about "how we really don't surf here on the east coast",and that "surfing here is a waste of time". My initial reaction was that he was correct in the assumption that surfing the east coast is a poor imitation for surfing in more consistently surf-able parts of the world; however the more I thought about the comment, the more my opinion changed. Surely, our inconsistent conditions and harsh weather conditions are frustrating and require a good deal of patience, but the overall surfing experience is probably quite similar to other areas, as I believe, surfing to a large degree is as much a mental activity as it is a physical activity. I try to keep the perspective that these "desperado sessions" are just a means to keeping loose and limber for when it does finally get good. When its good in NY it can be really good. Funny thing when looking back at the conversation with my friend was that he was out again the following day surfing the same desperado waves!!! Truly addicted.

1 comment:

Shipworm&Gribble said...

french marc as ny desperado legend!