Nietzsche's dictum

"He who has a why to live can bear with almost any how"

Here is a grossly under exposed negative from my pre-dawn surf check wanderings on Saturday morning. While the negative is grossly underexposed due to my crappy little camera and expired ektachrome 100, i do feel the image captures the beauty that is evident in dawn patrol.

PS the nosedevil is gone....

Like the little stream

Making its way

Through the mossy crevices

I, too, quietly

Turn clear and transparent.

Ryokan (Zen monk/poet; 1758-1831).

A New Day Dawning...

I exposed this photograph a few weeks ago at first light. It reminds me of the wonder of things to come and the simple beauty of an everyday moment. The photograph also puts me in mind of the new beginnings I have embarked upon on and is reflective of the deep sense of gratitude I am experiencing for the things I have in my life and my new found ability to perceive and accept those things more clearly and mindfully.

On another note, I am anxiously awaiting the new addition to the family as my brother, Martin and his wife, Shara are set to deliver a new child this morning. My thoughts and prayers are with them today.

surprising winter fun yesterday..

Got lucky and caught a completely average non-memorable surf yesterday. It was still a pleasant surprise given the marine forecast and "swell-nofo.coms" reports. Semi-side shore winds, and some sideways snow always keep you in mind of the Winter. Got to catch up with some friends and get a few fun ones on the Cherry Simms21. I am so grateful for my time off and the ability to spend some good time with Pjay and Avery. Enjoy the simplicity of it all....

the doors of perception

This photo is one of many that I exposed on Sunday. It a photo of the entry arch to an old and  abandon church that is not too far from my house. The place had such a weird vibe, walking around it- I definitely felt the presence of  a lot adolescent activity that certainly goes down there at night, but a tremendous sense of stillness was also evident. I liked it there!

We all find our own kind of church whether it be to solace of friendships; the vastness of the ocean; the moment by moment awareness that occurs in the green room;  a stoic cathedral;  a Zendo, or the stillness of our own mind..

Flight of the Seabirds, Scattered like Lost Words...

"Cassidy" is one of my favorite Bob Weir tunes...

an observation...

It's funny how the more I surf the more I want to surf. Its perhaps more interesting that the more I surf, the more irritable I get when I can not surf. I guess this is a tell tale sign of an addiction. At least it is a healthy addiction, provided I do not destroy my interpersonal relationships in the process ( I jest, well kind of). I also have noticed that I rely more on surfing when undergoing tricky intra-personal growth activity. surfing provides a very calming affect on my mood and mental activity, and allows me to step back from the issue at hand and gain some perspective.

This past week I got in the water for five sessions. This is pretty good by my winter standards as the lack of light, a work schedule that makes dawn patrol impossible, unfavorable winds and limited free time on the weekends really gets in the way. I guess for me, its important to fully recognize the experience of surfing as it occurs and to stay in the moment as much as possible, as one never knows when the next opportunity for surf may occur again.

Fresh Fish.....

Hoping to score some fresh fish tomorrow- "swellnofo" is playing with my mind again- that green guy of Swellinfo's Long Beach NY report is quite elusive.

'66 Hansen 50/50

Here is a shot of my vintage hansen 50/50. Apparently people either love em or hate em. so far I am in the love 'em camp. so wide, nice refined rails and nice east coast beach break rocker.

Back to the grind today- felt good!!!

abandon service stations...

I have always really liked abandoned service stations- not to many around my neck of the woods but this one struck my fancy last week.

Fooman and the Rad Warrior

Missing the early days of fall, with the crisp morning light, wispy off shores, warm water and a vague sense the summer was still around. Hoping to get my latest aquisition in the water tomorrow for her maiden voyage (mid sixties hansen 50/50). Surfcasts are calling for light offshores with a little knee-thigh high wave. I havent ridden my longboards in quite a while- looking to get re-aquainted.

Post-session reflection.... a connected experience

something I think we all do after a fun session is to look back at the ocean for a minute or two and reflect on the beauty of our experience. surfing allows a grounded connection to the planet energy that is very tangible...