Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Stacked Cooperfish Foils

I haven't spent too much time this winter on my logs. Looking forward to getting re-acquainted with the simplicity of the slide. It seems this winter did not bring too many of those classic wispy off shore winds with a playful background swell. The top board is a 9'10 cooperdesign rincon foil and the bottom board is my 9'8 malibu foil II

NP Grateful Dead- Lakeland Arena Florida 5/21/77- Estimated Prophet> He's Gone

Monday, March 30, 2009

The East Coast Hullmo: Now on the Endangered Species List

Seems like as of late the east coast hullmo is a dying breed; While one of the species' variants has gone the way of the fish, some of the other species members are still quite resilient, robust and resistant to the evolution patterns of extinction. Here is one of the merry band of NY Hullmo contemplating if it's "really a hull wave". I know they don't really work in our beach break conditions- only the indoctrinated smile with the knowledge...

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Morning becomes Electric

I have been processing a bit of film as of late, so some new images to come- shot this one at sunrise on a day with quite abit of swell. I love that first peak of sun over the horizon.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Fuel TV Focus on Art Party

Many thanks to Billy Patron (AKA Bar Bill) for documenting an insane night at FuelTV's Focus on Art Party. Good company and an overall great vibe at the event. Super impressed with Andy Kessler installation of Skate NYC history. I especially loved a bowl sequence from way back in the day.
Big Props to Tommy Snapwater, Susannah Ray, Matt Clark and Rob K. for the insanely interesting work. Once again I want to again thank MolluskNYC for the putting me in touch with the Fuel Folks. It was a pure pleasure working with CJ Olivares, General manager of Fuel-and Beth Lyden from Tadpole productions!! super stoked people!!!

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

blog fodder and some shameless self-promotion....

Tomorrow night, I'll be part of Fuel TV's Focus on Art exhibit that is part of the week long event Fuel is putting on in NYC. Should be some interesting people at the event. Other photographers will include Tommy "Snapwater" Colla, Matt Clark, Rob from Loggin' and Bloggin' and others. Again, many many thanks to the guys at MolluskNYC for keeping me in the loop. Pretty sure it will be a good time. Hopefully people dig the work!!

Monday, March 23, 2009

latte like froth

I gotta bunch of rolls to process, kinda lazy tonight, not up for the chemicals. New images coming within the next couple of days.

On another note- I am looking for possible trades for my 10'1 cooperfish nosedevil. burnt orange with some killer pinlines on the bottom- looking for good condition nosedevil in the 9'8 range or a pimped out tyler or lance carson- shaped by lance.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

New Rorschach Inkblot... First response, "It looks like a surfer"

The outline of the subject/reflection in this photograph reminds me of my training with the Rorschach Psychodiagnostic Inkblot Test. I never took much stock in the predictive validity and inter-rater reliability of instrument, but the cards are fascinating. I really like the interplay between the leashline and its reflection. I know, I can already here the comment ("Why is he wearing a leash?").

This image will be included in the Focus on Art that FuelTV is putting on Weds night at the Bathhouse Studios in Manhattan. Thanks to the boys at MolluskNYC for the hook up. Unfortunately the exhibit is by invite only.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

the vast openness- where fowl and fish merge

early morning fog shot from a sand crab perspective.. the waves have been so good around here over the last week- plently of good moods are being had.

Weds at Bathhouse Studios, Manhattan- salt stained eyes photographs will be on display as part of the Fuel TV's Focus on Art. I am stoked to be part of the show.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Delusions of Dirt

A new addition to the diagnositic criteria for Obsessive-CompHULLsive Disorder: persistent thoughts and feelings that you are Steve Krajewski AKA Bojorquez, despite the fact that you are not in Malibu but rather in a very un-point like east coast beach break. That said I will take my neurosis as long as I can keep my Hulls. Very good surf in our parts today- rare off shores all day and a decent lil ground swell- the hull was a hummin'
Photo compliments of BBQ Bus Bill

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

a perfect combination!!

A green hull and a pint of Guinness- a good thing for sure!!
Did you feel like Shane McGowen last night??
NP: Grateful Dead Cornell- 1977- my favorite vintage for the dead

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

alone on the horizon

I surfed a good part of today completely alone...such a nice opportunity to check in with the flow of mental activity. Sometimes being alone in the line-up allows the mind to open up like the horizon.

Monday, March 16, 2009

the session ends...

I kind of dig this photograph-as it seems to captures that moment when everyone has decided that they have surfed enough for the given session.

On another note, The Terrence Joyce Gallery in Greenport, NY (northfork of long island) will be carrying some of my photographs. The gallery is in a choice locale and the owner is a super nice guy. Look for the Salt Stained Eyes at the FuelTV event in Manhattan next week- so stoked to be included in this event.

NP- Neil Young's- On the Beach- an unreal masterpeice

Sunday, March 15, 2009


I was mesmorized by how this wave zips down the line in a machine like efficient manner- a true amusement park ride!

Friday, March 13, 2009

another pre-dawn quite moment

my favorite time of the day. unfortunately not much was happening inthe way of waves.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

a couple more from a pretty insane day..

These are the last decent shots I got from a incredible day a couple of weeks ago. The light was kinda funky for the majority of the morning, but occasionally a nice diffused light emerged. Memories are still floating through my mindspace.

Np: '73 Grateful Dead Bootleg- Maples Pav. China>Rider

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The Three Wise Men looking for the Promised Land

Just another group of junkies/surf zombies at the daily dawn of the dead early morning surf check. Good to see they are observing the bike lane.

Monday, March 9, 2009

The beauty of consistency.

Wouldn't it be nice to have this wave consistently?-it's going in my direction.

Happy Birthday, Pjay!! Hope your day is all that you could hope for!!
NP(in my head): John Coltrane's "A Love Supreme"

Sunday, March 8, 2009

looking back

The relatively good weekend of waves and warm weather, makes me quite hopeful that spring is arriving soon. So looking forward to the spring swell season.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

the progression of anticipation.....good things to come

the experience of surfing for me starts way before I actually enter the water. Often it starts the night before with wind, tide and swell forecasts. Pre-dawn waking and the process of picking boards to bring down to the beach heighten the anticipation. Most often the anticipation is at its peak as I approach my first glimspe of the ocean- i love this moment as feelings of hope outweigh the thoughts of doubt!!

NP: Radiohead- in rainbows

Thursday, March 5, 2009

more jerz rights

Its nice to be able to occasionally grab a vantage point that is suitable to shooting surfing with a diana camera. I was able to set up on a seawall to catch guys making these nice take-offs. Still trying to figure out a way to modify a telephoto with a crappy plastic lens.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

The Morning's First Glance

Sunrise, incoming tide and good things to come.

NP: The Hold Steady- Stay Positive- Lord, I am discouraged

Monday, March 2, 2009

In your dreams.. it happens

How often is your sleep disrupted in anticipation of good swell? This is kinda the image that plays with my mind in the early pre-dawn hours. The photograph is from a little day trip to the west coast(west of the hudson that is) a week and a half ago. More to come over the next couple of days. Hopefully our last snow storm of the year has passed.

NP: Fleet Foxes

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Flex Deck Fantasy!!

I have been spending a little more time on the skate lately. I really like my little sector nine flex-deck with big ass glidey wheels. Its like riding a hull!! My neighbors are thoroughly perplexed with my inability to act my age. Finally got some decent waves today- great to be back on the Liddle M3p.