Monday, January 31, 2011

Mississippi John Hurt - You got to walk that lonesome valley

check out the right hand- unreal playing.

creekfish remorse

ya ever sell a board only to regret it shortly thereafter? Several people i know are in this exact predicament right now. I've been there as well.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

rushed excitement

been awhile since i have had that rushed excitement of running down to the line-up...

Monday, January 24, 2011

10 degrees Farenheit

another cold and dry weekend.. i havent snapped a photo in way too long. havent been able to surf in a way too long..cabin fever has set in but comfort is found being found in the warm tones of a stratocaster..

this photo is the anti-answer to hye tydes "muscle car mondays"..

Thursday, January 20, 2011

A dollar short and a day late... so it goes

That last step to the tip is so elusive and rare for me..while my success percentage is slowly increasing, too often i get enjoyably stuck in trim about 6 inches from the tip. I'll choose to blame this pattern on our inconsistent waves and my lack of commitment to logging when swell moves to a long period interval rather than my ability level... yeah right, i am sure my BS is pretty transparent. When i do get to the tip, the ride is rather short lived because I stubbornly refuse to pay attention to the subtle and not so subtle signs of enpending doom. I envy the guys I know who regularly stick the noseride!! live and learn and i gotta commit to more practice...

Thursday, January 13, 2011

seems like a dream from the distant past

we used to get waves when it snowed- seems like some distant dream from the past.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

another winter storm and still... NO WAVES!!!

Only exercise i got today was shreddin the snow-blower!!! throwin massive buckets of snow , with plenty of rooster tail turns!!!

Monday, January 10, 2011

from the other side of the glass

It's a rare occasion that someone aims their lens at me when i am in the line-up; however i was lucky enough to be digitally captured on Saturday afternoon by Robert Wands.......

Saturday was a complete surprise, great little log session. I kinda wrote the day off but a nagging impulse kept pushing me to "go check it". I stumbled upon a fairly consistent knee/thigh to occasional waist high peelers. Perfect light off shore breezy and a wave that broke from the outside all the way in without sectioning. Oddly a satisfying day. Loving my Tyler 9'9 Point model.

Kinda tough to stay in sync with surfing when the surf conditions dictate that you can only get in the water once every two weeks. This winter has been as dreadful as I can remember as we have been plagued by a lack of consistent surf and a heavy sideshore wind pattern.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

surprise little log love....

pleasantly satisfied after the stealth little session this afternoon. wispy light off shore winds, with little thigh occasional waist lines coming in. waves did not section at all....

Friday, January 7, 2011

Wednesday, January 5, 2011


“Nothing is at last sacred but the integrity of your own mind.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Monday, January 3, 2011

smear and smudge campaign

Before i got back into shooting film, I was playing around with captured video stills from some of my favorite surf film scenes. i was then using photoshop to play with the image a bit. this is a manipulated screen grab from the Cape St Francis segment of the Endless Summer. This scene is so important to the history of surfing and the sense of adventure that is brought to surfing. looking back the manipulated image comes across as kind of cliche but I kind of like it nonetheless..

2011 resolution

my 2011 resolution is to get back to shooting. its been a lapse of about 2 months since I blew threw some film. hope to put together some new images for 2011- bare with me!

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Dead Flowers

been reading Life by Keith Richards... what a great read... re-ignited my love for all things Keith. Check this version of Dead Flowers (keith, Willie Nelson, Ryan Adams and Hank Williams III)- serious DNA in the room that night!