Tuesday, November 30, 2010
This recent flat spell has led me to have a shortage of new photographs. My initial intention of this blog was to set a personal challange of posting new images daily..no small task given our inconsistent surf and my fairly hectic schedule. Up until recently i have generally been able to live up to this challange but I as of late new photographic work is coming slowly... This has forced me to look back at the images from the last few years, here is one from last December that i never posted. Hopefully our weather patterns start changing and we get more consistent surf so that i can go on my merry way of surfing nad shooting the activity I feel so connected too..
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Monday, November 22, 2010
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Monday, November 15, 2010
tripping epoxy pavel speed dialer that Pendo collaborated on. Insanely refined rails and light as a feather. Illmi has some rad sticks!!
Thanks to all who came out to support the Tommy Brull Foundation Saturday night- lots of money donated which will services three very special projects. Read more about the foundation at here: Tommy Brull
Friday, November 12, 2010
How often do you feel totally connected to your surrounding and a oneness with the environment? For me that incredible sense of flow is fleeting and does not happen nearly enough despite my attempts at a mindful and contemplative life. Most often when these moments occur I am surfing. One such "episode of connected-ness" occurred Wednesday evening. I was conflicted about rushing down to the beach after work obligations. My rational head was screaming, " It's not worth it, there's not enough time". Despite these overtly rational disputations, I was compelled to go anyway. Ambling through after-school/rush hour congestion with dwindling day light only made these thoughts resound louder. Thankfully I proceeded. I arrived to small but perfectly shaped thigh to waist lines and an empty line-up. If only I brought the log. I eagerly suited up and paddled out on my simster. Over the course of the next 45 to sixty minutes the session became more and more powerfully calm. Little lines gave way to an exploding sky filled feeding sea birds, warm golden light and iridescence froth on the waters surface. Surfing these little elegant lines being mindful of the dynamic surface reflections of the wave face again confirmed for me the gratitude I have for the ability to "wash it all off" and expand/empty into the nothingness of the moment.
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Monday, November 8, 2010
Sunday, November 7, 2010
chilly but plently of swell in the water this weekend. Rusty bones and limited lung capacity had its way with me but caught a few really fun slides. Saturday I took out the 7'2 cherry simms21 and yesterday was the maiden voyage on the 5'9 simster- so much fun- three is key!!
This is a shot of "big wave Dave" with his seriously old school gunny log.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
A rather paradoxical week for the surf world. Andy Iron's tragically passes, and Kelly is immortalized with his 10th world championship. The two individuals will forever be remembered and linked in surfing's collective consciousness. Intense rivalry, competition, tragedy and transcendence are words that come to mind, but in the end life is always victorious.
Friday, November 5, 2010
Its been almost eleven years since my brother Tom passed away, I still think of him daily. If you knew him, you were blessed by the presence of a caring, funny, intelligent and creative, humble human being. He loved surfing, skating, writing and being with friends and his family. A truly soulful cat!!
If you are in the New York area please consider coming out to the Annual Tommy Brull Foundation Fundraiser. Money raised this year will benefit the Camp Anchor Building Fund, ASPIRE (an agency servicing individuals on the Autism Spectrum) and Jim Lasko. Read more about the foundation and this years event check the link below
Tommy Brull Foundation
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Here is a shot of the tail of my 7'2 John Cherry Simms21- the Simms21 is John's take of the traditional simmons style board with some modern tweeks. This board is set up with the most beautiful exotic wood keels and a half moon little trailing fin. Deep double concave at the tail and a little belly under nose. The rails are trainsition from an "uprail to a 50/50 to a nice hard down rail at the tail. The deck at the nose is scooped out to reduce swing weight. This midi-simmons is so buttery smooth!!!
Monday, November 1, 2010
This is a shot of my friend Tom, probably one of the most dedicated and stoked surfer I know. He is down at the beach pre-dawn any time there is the slightest hope of a rideable wave. This attitude of surf psychosis has been present in him for a long, long time. He takes pleasure in the sleeper days where there is a surprise little bump in the water with light winds.
The guy has the surf joy of a grom. He surfs his favorite spot with the loyalty of a Labrador Retriever, and it is almost as if he is cheating on his wife if forced to move over to another break due to crowding or a bad vibe in the water.Tom is almost as obsessed with Laurelton as he is with his quiver of dewey webers. Tom thanks for the friendship and the excitement you share about "this thing of ours".