Saturday, January 2, 2010

one for surf check lenny

My man Lenny is always reliable with his morning surf check texts. The text comes in like some no nonsense, military-like classified info- example: "chest -going" or "knee- longboardable" or "flat-paddling out anyway!!"
Some super fun waves yesterday-my first time on a fish since thanksgiving- such a good way to start 2010. Tons of rights- very unusual around these parts- so fun to watch all my spoiled goofy footed friends going right.

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