the experience of surfing for me starts way before I actually enter the water. Often it starts the night before with wind, tide and swell forecasts. Pre-dawn waking and the process of picking boards to bring down to the beach heighten the anticipation. Most often the anticipation is at its peak as I approach my first glimspe of the ocean- i love this moment as feelings of hope outweigh the thoughts of doubt!!
NP: Radiohead- in rainbows