the experience of surfing for me starts way before I actually enter the water. Often it starts the night before with wind, tide and swell forecasts. Pre-dawn waking and the process of picking boards to bring down to the beach heighten the anticipation. Most often the anticipation is at its peak as I approach my first glimspe of the ocean- i love this moment as feelings of hope outweigh the thoughts of doubt!!
NP: Radiohead- in rainbows
2 comments:
Great picture!
i could walk down this path forever
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